(Optional) Part 4: Securing the Harness

Alright! We've finished the device. Now, after testing it and making sure it works, you can glue the wires that connect the headband to the arduino so that they don't get pulled out. This makes the device more secure, but makes it harder to change in the future. Only do this after you know everything is working and have checked that all the wires are plugged in.

First, we are going to move all of the wires that are connected to the black header pins onto the solderless breadboard. The first one is the white wire coming off of the headband and connecting to the pin labeled "Vin" on the arduino (as shown below). Remove the wire connected to "Vin." Cut a new lenght of white wire and plug it in as shown below, between "Vin" and the solderless breadboard.

Next, plug the white wire in the same row as the other white wire you just added (plugging it in one hole to the left on the breadboard).

We are now going to do the same thing with the black wire connected to the "GND" pin on the arduino. Cut a length of black wire that can connect from the "GND" pin to the breadboard as shown.

Then, plug the black wire onto the breadboard, to the right of the new black wire (on the same row on the breadboard).

Next, we need to move the red wire over. Fortunately, we already have five volt power on the board, so you just need to move the red wire to the right and plug it in. Simple. Just make sure it's on the same row as the other red wires.

Now that we have all the power wires connected to the breadboard, we need to to the same thing with the yellow wire connected to pin 7. Cut a small yellow wire to connect from pin 7 on the arduino headers to the solderless breadboard, just above the white wire going to the RGB LED.

Next, plug the yellow wire to the left of the wire you just added, making sure it's on the same row (to the left) as the one you added.

Now that we have all the wires on the solderless breadboard, it's time to glue them. I use hot glue because it dries quickly, but any glue will work. Before you glue everything, make sure the device is working and the wires are plugged in all the way. You don't want to glue it if it's broken.

You will want to apply glue to every wire that is going to the headband. Make sure each wire is glued the base of each wire to the solderless breadboard (shown in the yellow boxes in the picture below). You don't want to get glue on the tops of the buttons (red boxes below), so be careful not to put glue on top of those. 

After applying the glue, it should look something like this. Wait for the glue to dry completely before putting any tension on the wires. You won't want to pull a wire out while the glue is still wet.

Next, move on to the headband. Test that it's working and that the wires are plugged in all the way before gluing. Start by gluing all of the blue, green, and white wires to the breadboard, as shown in the yellow box below. You can put glue on all of the components in the yellow box, so apply liberally.

Next, add glue to the red, black and yellow wires going to the infrared receivers. You want to glue the wires to the solderless breadboard, highlighted with the yellow box below. You do not want to get glue on the black boxes of the infrared receivers, in the red box below. Getting glue on the pins below the black boxes is fine. Just try not to get glue on the black boxes on top of the pins.

And that's it! After the glue has dried, the wires should be secure on both sides of the breadboard. Now, the device should be able to withstand the normal stress of running around and playing laser tag. Just don't drop the device, as not everything is secured with glue, and some things can still fall out.

So now, you can play laser tag! For a tutorial on how the devices work, click here.