Part 2: Building the Headset Sensor Package

So, you've already built the handheld device (if you haven't, click here to go to that tutorial). Now, it's time to build the sensor package that goes on your head. This tutorial assumes you have completed part 1 and know how to cut wires to a particular length.

We are going to start with only red wire, and then move on to other colors. The solderless breadboard has numbers going across the sides and letters on top. I will designate holes to connect using these letters and numbers. For example, the top left hole is 1-a. The top right hole is 1-j. The hole one down from that is 2-j. 

The first wire we are going to plug in is from 3-d and 6-d. In the image below, I haven't plugged it all the way in so you can see more easily what holes it connects to. In future images, the wires will be plugged all the way in.

 The next connection is 6-c to 9-e.

The next connection is 9-c to 7-h. For this one, you want to bend the wire down, so that it doesn't cover the hole on 9-d. We will need to use that connection point later. So, when you are making the wire, make it longer than you need to, and then pre-bend it in the U-shape that it needs to be to fit in place (see picture below).

Next, connect 7-i with 4-g.

And for the last red wire, connect 4-h with 1-g.

And that's the red wires! Now, we need to do the same thing, but with black wires. When the black wires are going to go over the red ones, make them a little bit longer and bend them into a U-shape in order to go over the red wires. In the picture below, the wire isn't plugged in all he way to show how it is bent in an curve.

The first black wire goes from 8-h to 5-h, going over the red wires.

The next goes from 5-g to 2-h. Again, bending over the red wires.

The next one goes across the gap in the middle, from 5-f to 5-e.

 The next goes from 5-c to 8-d. 

The next is from 5-a to 2-a.

And that's it for the black wires! Now we switch to yellow, for the final wiring (for the infrared sensors. There is more later, but we'll get to that).

The first yellow wire goes from 1-e to 3-f.

Next from 3-i to 6-g. This one is going to go over some wires, so be sure it is a little longer so that it can be bent into an arc to go over the red wires (again, shown in the picture not plugged in all the way. In fact, the next few pictures are going to show the wire not plugged in all the way to make it easier to see exactly where they are plugged in, and some of the arch that they need)

The next is from 6-f to 9-g, again, going over a red wire.

 Next, we go from 9-i to 7-a. Just like the red wire we put on the bottom, we want to bend this wire so that it doesn't cover 9-h. We also don't want to cover 9-b, so make this wire much longer than normal to make sure it can bend like it does in the picture below.

Next, go from 7-c to 4-c.

 And that's all the yellow wires! Whew! Now it's time to plug in the infrared receivers. So, grab one of the infrared receivers.

The "front" of the infrared receiver has a dome on top. We want all of the domes to be facing away from each other (towards the outside of the solderless breadboard). So take the first infrared receiver and turn it so that the dome is facing away from you.

Next, you want to bend the pin / leg (piece of metal coming out on the left side) do the left, straight out from the infrared receiver.

Now, you want to bend the leg on the left back down so that it is further away from the other legs than it was, but it is now facing the same direction that it was previously (see picture below). You want it to be far enough to reach over the gap in the middle of the breadboard (see next picture for where it eventually goes).

Next, cut the legs so that the infrared receiver's legs are a bit longer than the height of the solderless breadboard.

Then, with the dome facing away from you, you are going to plug the left pin into 3-e, the middle pin into 2-f, and the right pin into 3-g.

 

Next, we are going to do the same thing, but this time, have the infrared LED face you.

 Bend the leg on the left hand side over to the left, and then bend it down so that it can reach over the gap in the middle of the solderless breadboard. 

 

After bending the leg down and cutting them (just like the last one), plug it in so that the left leg goes into 7-e, the middle leg goes into 8-f, and the right leg goes into 7-g.

 

For all of the rest of the infrared receivers, you are going to cut the legs shorter and then plug them in. The dome on the infrared receiver is also going to face out, towards the side of the solderless breadboard. Also, the pictures are going to show the infrared receiver barely plugged in so it is easy to see where it is plugged in to. The infrared receivers should sit lower to the solderless breadboard when they are plugged all the way in.

The first one goes on 9-h, 8-i, and 7-j.

The next one goes on 6-i, 5-i, and 4-i. 

The next one goes in 1-h, 2-i, and 3-j.

 The next one goes on the other side, with the dome facing to the top left. The pins go into 3-b, 2-c, and 1-d.

The next goes in 6-b, 5-b, and 4-b.

And the last infrared receiver goes in 7-b, 8-c, and 9-d.

Next, get the capacitor, which looks like a little yellow thing with two metal legs sticking out. 

Cut the legs so that the legs are a little bit longer than the solderless breadboard, then plug it into 1-j and 2-j.

The completed circle of infrared receivers should look like this.

Alright, now that the infrared sensors are all in place, there are only a few more components that we need to connect to the solderless breadboard.

First, connect a black wire from 8-j to 20-j.

Next, connect another black wire from 20-g to 24-g.

Finally, cut a black wire to connect 24-e to 24-f.

Next, you need to connect one of the transistors. They look like small black boxes with a curved side and three pieces of metal (legs) sticking out of the bottom. 

Like all of the things in this tutorial, you need to cut the legs so that the transistor legs are a little bit longer than the solderless breadboard, and then connect the legs to the breadboard so that the curved part is facing to the left. Connect it to the breadboard on holes 20-f, 19-f, and 18-f.

Be sure to plug the transistor all the way in.

Then, find the 1 kOhm resistors, which have gold, red, black and brown bands. 

Take one of the resistors out of the paper and bend the legs down so that they are sticking straight down away from the body of the resistor and then cut the legs to fit into the solderless breadboard.

Plug the resistor into 19-i and 21-f. Note that it doesn't matter which way the stripes are pointing. It will work either way.

Next, we are going to add another transistor (after cutting the legs) to 24-h, 23-h, and 22-h.

Next, bend and cut another 1 kOhm resistor and connect it to 23-i and 25-h.

Take the final transistor, cut the legs, and then connect it to 24-c, 23-c and 22-c.

Take another 1 kOhm resistor, and plug it into 23- and 25-c.

 

And that's it! You have now built the sensor package for the headset. 

Click here to go on to the third part of the tutorial, where you will assemble the headset and connect the sensor package and the arduino.